My little secret
A trad climb located in the
Starlight Summit area.
5.12c
210m
This not so hidden gem offers some great varied climbing up a set of corners. The difficulty slowly ramps up with the crux being on pitch 5 and battling a tricky bulge and roof section. Starts at the end of the main trail underneath the obvious tree and stack of boulders. The descent trail is reach towards the left of where you finish.
DR up to 4", mostly in the 1"-2" range
Charlie Lee
- Pitch 1 5.10c30mEasy moves up the corner. Belay half way up on the obvious ledge out left
- Pitch 2 5.11a30mContinue up the corner with beautiful laybacks. Tricky sequence moving onto the face on good edges to reach the belay
- Pitch 3 5.11a35mConsistent climbing up the face on good edges
- Pitch 4 5.12a25mThe short cruxy pitch follows the thin crack up and left, good footwork essential
- Pitch 5 5.12c35mThis spicy pitch is definitely the crux, starts around 12a but you'll feel that 12c burn as soon as you move under the roof.
- Pitch 6 5.10c25mMake the most of the short easier pitch. Stunning views moving up and right on the face on thin edges
- Pitch 7 5.11a30mFollow the crack up and slightly to the right, eventually moving out of the crack and onto the face